Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

This month we turn our attention to Kent, located in the south-east of England. In this county we find one of our finest historic cities, impressive medieval towns, popular seaside resorts and busy ports, set amidst picturesque countryside and wildlife-rich marshland, and culminating of course in its famous white cliffs. Known as the Garden of England, perhaps since the time when King Henry VIII’s fruiterer planted the first apple trees and cherry trees in Teynham, the mild climate and fertile soil of Kent have produced numerous vibrantly colourful gardens, not to mention a typically English landscape of countryside, woodland, orchards and parkland.

There’s no question that this county offers us a fine lesson in English history. It’s said that it was when Julius Caesar was standing in Kent (Cantium) in 55BC, he said “I came, I saw, I conquered”; St Augustine arrived here in the 6th century to reclaim England for Christianity; William the Conqueror marched armies across the Kent countryside; King Henry VIII met Anne of Cleves here; and in relatively recent times the Spitfires and Hurricanes of the RAF waged the Battle of Britain in the skies above Kent.

The county has three distinct regions, each with its own attractions and character. Firstly, there’s the area known as the Heart of Kent which provides a landscape of rolling hills and ancient wooded valleys. Here you’ll find historic houses, gardens, orchards, vineyards and castles a plenty. Reputedly, this area has more attractions of this nature open to the public than any other area in the UK. Five historic towns are to be found here too: the ancient settlement of Ashford; the county town of Maidstone with its river festival; Sevenoaks set in an area of breathtaking countryside; Tonbridge with its river setting and its castle towering above the town; and of course the spa town of Royal Tunbridge Wells.

Secondly, the maritime area of Kent, centred around Medway, includes the popular holiday destinations of Sittingbourne, Faversham and Swale; Rochester with its Victorian high street and cathedral; the historic town of Gravesend, which has associations with both Pocahontas and General Gordon; Chatham with its historic dockyards; Higham where Charles Dickens resided; the Isle of Sheppey with its award-winning beaches; and Dartford where you’ll find King Henry VIII’s Royal Manor Gatehouse and a famous medieval church mural.

Thirdly, there’s the area including Canterbury and Coastal Kent. One of our finest historic cities is set against a backdrop of beautiful countryside. The cathedral is quite magnificent and welcomes more than 1.5 million visitors each year! The historic buildings and streets combine to make a visit to Canterbury a truly wonderful experience. The coastline takes in traditional Victorian seaside resorts like Folkestone and Ramsgate, and of course those famously beautiful white cliffs at Dover. From here, on a clear day, you can see right across the English Channel to France.

Whether you enjoy walking, cycling or horse-riding, the dramatic landscape of the Kent Downs, an area of Outstanding Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, will give you a vast network of country lanes, bridleways and footpaths to explore. This area covers almost 25% of the county, spreading from Dover toward Surrey and London. Long distance pathways include the North Downs Way, the Stour Valley Walk and the Saxon Shore Way.
So, where will we find Kent’s ancient trees, its ancient woodland and its best treescapes?

The Blean contains the largest area of ancient broadleaved woodland in the south of England, so Blean Woods (TR0857) is a great place to start. This National Nature Reserve (NNR) covers some 11 square miles and is managed by a variety of organisations including the RSPB. In the past these woods were owned by religious bodies, including the Canterbury Cathedral Priory and St Augustine’s, and happily that means that their history tends to be well documented. Not surprisingly, much of the woodland is designated as ancient. Watch out for more than 100 veteran oaks, many pollarded, and also for some superb examples of ancient hornbeam, beech and sweet chestnut trees. Some of the beech coppice is believed to be 700 years old. One of the most unusual species here is Sorbus Vagensis, a rare hybrid of the whitebeam and the wild service tree! Look for alder buckthorn too, and at ground level you’ll find bluebells, common centaury and common spotted orchids. Nightingales, hawfinches, nightjars and even golden orioles may be spotted here, and keep a sharp eye open for the rare seven-spotted ladybird. The Woodland Trust manages Grimshill Wood and Church Wood (TR1059), whilst East Blean (TR1964) is managed by Kent Wildlife Trust. This KWT location is especially good for common cow-wheat, which in turn provides food for the caterpillar of the rare heath fritillary butterfly. Access is also possible via Clowes Wood, managed by Forest Enterprise, and Thornden Woods.

You’ll also enjoy the way-marked walks which run through the 460 acres of lovely Kent Downs countryside, surrounding the visitor centre at Lullingstone Park (TQ5163) near Eynsford. Part of a castle estate, this medieval deer-park retains a sizeable number of ancient trees. Around 300 survive including about 100 oak pollards and 50 hornbeams. Look for beech, ash and sweet chestnut too, some of which are believed to be more than 800 years old. There is a golf course here now, and some of the ancient oaks are in this area. Visit in summer if you wish to catch the spectacular displays of orchids and other wild flowers in the grassland areas. Kent County Council had to step in to save the visitor centre from closure in March 2005, and management of the country park was also transferred from Sevenoaks District Council at the same time.

Scadbury Park (TQ4570) near Chislehurst is another interesting estate. In the 15th century, the Walsingham family took it over, and the ruins of their moated manor house can be seen to the south of the farm here. Managed by the London Borough of Bromley, as the estate borders its northern edge, it covers some 300 acres of pasture and mixed woodland. This was once part of an Elizabethan royal hunting forest, and a small number of ancient oaks survive here. Check out the ponds if you’re interested in Great Crested Newts, now a relatively scarce species.

A third estate of interest is Fredville Park, once owned by the Boys family and now by the Plumtree family. This location is famous for its remarkable oak trees. Three were given names in the early 19th century – Majesty, Beauty and Stately. All three are believed to be standing today. In 1800 the girth of one, probably Majesty, was recorded as being 27 feet, and its height as 30 feet. There were large sweet chestnuts too, including the Step Tree; so-called because a dozen people could sit high in the upper part of the trunk using steps attached to the trunk!

The National Trust is not to be outdone. The 17th century property at Knole (TQ5354) is the pick of its locations. Birthplace of novelist Vita Sackville-West and home to Lord Sackville, this is considered to be one of England’s finest treasure houses. It contains a rare collection of Royal Stuart furniture, as well as valuable paintings by Van dyke, Reynolds and Gainsborough. The surrounding deer-park covers some 1,000 acres and is a designated Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). This is in fact Kent’s only surviving deer-park, perhaps because unusually the grounds weren’t given the Brown/Repton landscaped design that was so common in the 18th century. As well as the herd of deer, you’ll no doubt spot the remaining ancient beech trees, as well as a number of other noteworthy old trees, although the great storm of 1987 did take out 70% of the trees here. Together with her husband Sir Harold Nicolson, Vita Sackville-West was of course responsible for the famous 20th century gardens in the grounds of an Elizabethan mansion at Sissinghurst Castle (TQ8138). From the 15th century this estate was home to the Baker family, but became a prison camp in the 18th century. In 1930 Sackville-West bought the castle and 400 acres of farmland with a view to creating a new garden. Here you’ll find lovely lakeside and woodland walks on the estate, as well as the garden’s Lime Walk.

Now, let’s look at some other interesting National Trust properties in the county. The Picturesque-style garden at Scotney Castle (TQ6835) is always described as one of England’s most romantic. The 14th century moated castle is a quaint ruin but the dreamy lakeside setting is truly beautiful. The 770-acre estate comprises parkland, woodland and a hop farm! There are numerous old trees here, some of which are ancient, including oaks, hornbeam, beech, willow, ash and even pear. Visit in spring for a great display of bluebells, and there are terrific views too. Other features include a heather-thatched ice house. Chartwell (TQ4551) dates from the 17th century and was bought by Sir Winston Churchill in 1922 because of its breathtaking views over the Weald toward the South Downs. It has fine collections within the house, including Churchill’s own paintings, and splendid gardens outside. You’ll find a number of mature trees and fine beech woods which enhance the view from the house.

There’s a splendid moated manor house at Ightham Mote (TQ5853) near Sevenoaks, dating from 1320. Renowned for the hand-painted ceiling in its Tudor chapel (and for a Grade I listed dog kennel!), it has a lovely garden and some very pleasant woodland and lakeside walks. In Emmetts Garden (TQ4752) you’ve a rather quaint, informal Victorian garden, which provided a setting for the 1985 film Room with a View. The garden, which was influenced by William Robinson, reputedly has the highest treetop in the county. Visit here to see a number of rare and exotic trees and shrubs. Lastly, there’s St John’s Jerusalem (TQ5570), a 13th century chapel and gardens, encircled by the River Darent. Look here for some excellent specimen trees.

The Kent Wildlife Trust is responsible for some excellent ancient woodland sites, three of which have the strangest names! Firstly, there’s Wattle Wood (TO8735), best described as ancient coppice with standards - the former being mainly hornbeam and sweet chestnut, the latter being mainly oak. Dormice are known to reside in this wood. Secondly, there’s Spuckles & Kennelling Wood (TQ9552). This is mixed ancient woodland with a large variety of trees including spindle, field maple and wild cherry. Keep an eye out here for sanicle and yellow archangel. Thirdly, there’s Spong Wood (TR1245) - ancient woodland which is still regularly coppiced. Sweet chestnut and hornbeam are prevalent, and the ground flora includes bluebells, ransoms and herb-paris.

Here’s a good selection from the KWT’s other woodland sites. Brenchley Woods (TO6442) is a relic of High Weald woodland, where more than 25 species of bryophytes have been recorded. Cowden Pound Pastures (TQ4543) comprises grassland and ancient woodland, and includes a particularly large display of devil’s bit scabious. Sweet chestnut dominates the ancient woodland at The Gill (TQ7238). Look for opposite-leaved golden saxifrage and pendulous sedge in the damper areas. In the ancient mixed woodland of Quarry Wood (TQ7251) you’ll find mature oak and beech trees. In the past there was a hop garden at its centre! Westfield Wood (TQ7560) is part of an internally important yew woodland complex. Look here too for fine examples of mature ash and beech trees. Cromer’s Wood (TQ9060) is semi-natural ancient woodland on a dry slope valley. A few oak standards remain, together with sweet chestnut, hornbeam, ash and field maple coppice. Butcher’s broom, wood spurge and Solomon’s seal are amongst the ancient woodland indicators to be found here. The ancient woodland at Stone Wood (TQ9637) was sadly clear-felled by the Forestry Commission in the mid-20th century, but this is now being allowed to regenerate naturally. The ancient woodland at Orlestone Forest (TQ9835) lies within a larger area of woodland, renowned for its moths and butterflies, for example the scarce merveille du jour, ringlet, white admiral and grizzled skipper. Finally, Yockletts Bank (TR1247) is an area of ancient woodland on a chalk escarpment. This is one of the county’s best sites for lady orchids and for twayblades, and you may spot a slow worm or an adder here too.

The Woodland Trust also has some superb woodland locations in Kent. The ancient coppice woodland at Hollows Wood (TQ4963) includes oak, beech and sweet chestnut standards. This location also incorporates Pascalls Wood, on the opposite side of the A21. Friezland Wood (TQ5638) to the west of Tunbridge Wells is semi-natural ancient woodland, adjacent to an area of sandstone cliffs and boulders known as High Rocks. Another nearby wood was the trust’s 100th acquisition. Hurst Wood (TQ5640) is an ancient woodland site, and a carpet of bluebells makes a spring visit especially worthwhile. On the south-eastern edge of London lies Joydens Wood (TQ5072), which is of great historical and archaeological value. Here you’ll find a Saxon dyke dating from the 9th century or earlier. In the 18th century it was part of the Mount Mascal estate. Look in this ancient woodland site for wild service trees and for wild lily of the valley. Almost 60 acres of semi-natural ancient woodland are provided by Saxtens and Cages Wood (TQ5864), which is located on the sides and plateau of a picturesque valley. A wide variety of trees can be found here, including walnut, buckthorn and spindle.

Once part of the Cobham Hall estate, Ashenbank Wood (TQ6769) is in part old wood pasture. This ancient woodland site forms part of a larger SSSI. A small number of ancient trees remain, including an oak, some hawthorns and several sweet chestnuts, despite those 1987 storms. Wood spurge, caper spurge and wood sedge are to be found here, and you’ll come across a bowl barrow, a funerary ancient monument. The Hucking Estate (TQ8457) near Hollingbourne covers some 580 acres of farmland and woodland. It’s another wood of great archaeological interest, with features like marl pits, an ancient drove road and a woodbank. Dering Wood (TQ9044) is known locally for its rare beetles and its display of bluebells each spring. Oak and hornbeam coppice dominate this ancient woodland site, which features in records dating back over 1,000 years.

The ancient woodland at Packing Wood (TR0035) to the south of Ashford is part of a larger SSSI. Look for sweet chestnut coppice and oak standards, and visit in summer to see a notable variety of nesting birds and butterflies. In the 1700s Park Wood (TR0452) was known as Hasla Wood. This semi-natural ancient woodland was once part of the Chilham Castle estate and is located at the northern tip of Challock Forest. There are oak and ash standards here, as well as field maple and hazel coppice. Look out for violet helleborine and milk vetch amongst the ground flora. Denge Wood and the quaintly named Pennypot Wood (TR1052) stand on a ridge near Garlinge Green. Records show that these were here in the 18th century but some of the trees clearly go back much further, to the Middle Ages. Check out the ancient hornbeam and beech pollards. Note also the medieval warren in Denge Wood, and in summer look in this specific location for the Duke of Burgundy fritillary butterfly. Earley Wood (TR1250) near Petham is designated as semi-natural ancient woodland. Seven types of orchid have been recorded here.

Now, let’s turn away from the Woodland Trust to some other woods of interest. The ancient woodland at Farningham Woods is a Local Nature Reserve (LNR) and SSSI, managed by the local council. You’ll find small-leaved lime here and also the rare Deptford Pink. Ham Street Woods, a NNR, is part of the Orlestone Forest, which is a remnant of a continuous oak forest which spread across the Weald. As you follow the way-marked walks, note the medieval ditch and bank system, and the remains of a medieval dam here. Downy birch, hornbeam, and pedunculate and sessile oak dominate here, plus alder in the damper areas. Watch out for redpolls in the trees, greater butterfly orchids on the ground, and the Duke of Burgundy fritillary butterfly in flight. High Halstow, another NNR, is managed by the RSPB as part of the Northward Hill reserve. The ancient oak woodland here is notable for its regenerating areas of elm. There’s a large heronry here, plus long-eared owls and nightingales, and there’s always a good display of bluebells and yellow archangel in the spring and early summer. The private woodland known as Iffin Wood (TQ5313) contains a few very old beech and hornbeam pollards, whilst Kemsing Downs is high up on the North Downs escarpment. To the west of the site, you’ll find ancient woodland. Take a close look in the grassland, as no fewer than nine species of orchid have been found here! The wooded Seal Chart, Fawke & Bitchet Commons are quite beautiful. Once part of the Knole estate, these SSSI sites include valuable ancient oak woodland. Shoreham Woods is Sevenoaks District Council’s largest countryside property. It comprises five woods, connected by downland, and there are waymarked trails to follow. Visit in spring for a good display of bluebells. Stubbs Wood, part of a larger SSSI, stands on the Greensand Ridge and offers fabulous views across to Ashdown Forest. Despite being ravaged by the 1987 storms, there are some huge ancient oaks and beech trees still standing here. Finally, the Forestry Commission’s Bedgebury Pinetum (TQ7138) includes the National Pine collection.

Now, here’s a selection of other interesting privately-owned estates. Firstly, there’s Chiddingstone Castle, set in a National Trust village amid some glorious Wealden countryside. This squire’s house was once home to the Streatfeilds but today it’s owned by a charitable trust, thanks to the late Denys Bower. This country house is now open to the public. Look in the grounds for some impressive oaks. Another former deer-park is Cobham Park (TQ6868) near Rochester, home to the Darnley Family and probably best known today for its golf course. Look here too for a small number of notable oak trees. Lord Brabourne’s estate at Mersham Hatch Park (TR0640) was probably a deer-park in the 17th century. Today a few very old oak and hornbeam pollards can still be spotted whilst crossing the parkland via public footpaths.

Hever Castle was built in the 13th century and was home to Anne Boleyn when she was a child. The grounds were transformed in the early 20th century by Joseph Cheal, who turned marshland in gardens. There’s a woodland garden too, and autumn is a good time to visit to see the beech, maple and birch trees in resplendent colour. Leeds Castle stands upon two islands in a lake, surrounded by fabulous parkland designed by Capability Brown. Listed in the Domesday Book, it was once a Norman stronghold, home to six medieval queens, one of King Henry VIII’s palaces and in more recent times the residence of an American heiress. Look for the oaks and sweet chestnuts in the medieval deer-park. The coastal artillery fort at Walmer Castle was once a popular visiting post for the Duke of Wellington. It has been transformed over the years into a country residence, and was once cared for by W H Smith, the founder of the retail chain. Today it’s managed by English Heritage. Well known for its museum, which contains an original pair of you-know-who’s boots, and for a room often used by the Queen Mother, it also has superb gardens and a delightful woodland walk. Finally, if you visit Goodnestone Park, you may delight in retracing Jane Austen’s footsteps through the avenue of limes, and be sure to seek out the ancient cedar of Lebanon and the huge sweet chestnut which stand in the 14-acre grounds.

If you know of other ancient trees in Kent or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on Oxfordshire, we’d love to hear from you!

Please email us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference. We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please email them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!