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Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting
some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of
general interest for tree-lovers. Other than Woodland Trust
properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and
as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times,
it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local
Tourist Information Office before making a visit.
This month we turn our attention to Derbyshire, a county
which Lord Byron compared to both Greece and Switzerland for its
scenic beauty. It’s been an unceasingly popular area for visitors
throughout the centuries; from the Romans who delighted in the
networks of underground caverns, to the affluent Victorians who
loved to take the waters in the spa towns of Matlock and Buxton, to
the day-trippers and holiday-makers of the current day.
The diverse landscape attracts many of today’s tourists, who relish
the mix of stark, powerful moorlands with some of the most charming
dales in the country. From peaks to caverns, there’s an array of
natural attractions to tempt the outdoor enthusiast. Other key
destinations have emerged too, including award-winning museums,
thrilling theme parks and grand stately homes.
The Peak District National Park was England’s first such park in
1951 and covers 555 square miles over six counties. The largest,
arguably most beautiful, parts are to be found within Derbyshire.
Comprising the rolling farmland of the White Peak and grouse
moorlands of the Dark Peak, the area is probably as well known for
its reservoirs as for its breathtaking, panoramic views. Derwent and
Ladybower, famed for their submerged villages and huge dams, plus
the chain of five reservoirs at Upper Longdendale, are especially
popular with day visitors.
Castleton is enduringly popular, with some quite awesome caverns not
only providing Blue John, England’s rarest semi-precious stone, but
also delivering a spectacular underground vista to rival the
county’s peaks and dales. Poole’s Cavern in Buxton once attracted
legions of Romans, and visitors still flock there because of its
remarkable stalactites. The Heights of Abraham Country Park in
Matlock Bath, including the Great Masson Cavern and the Great
Rutland Cavern, are brought to life through some very hi-tech visual
equipment, but it’s the 570-metre cable car ride that provides its
most dramatic attraction.
There are fascinating museums across the county too, like the Crich
Tramway Museum, the Midland Railway Centre at Ripley and Red House
Stables Working Carriage Museum at Darley Dale. It’s also well worth
combining a visit to Derby’s City Museum, housing the largest public
collection of Derby porcelain, with the Royal Crown Derby factory’s
own museum. The Derby Industrial Museum includes the Rolls Royce
Aero Engine Collection, whilst Cromford Mill is a monument to
Richard Arkwright, the so-called “father of the factory system”.
For today’s younger visitors, it tends to be the thrills of the
American Adventure and Gulliver’s Kingdom that draws them in their
thousands to this exhilarating county.
Possibly Derbyshire’s most notable feature, however, is its quite
impressive array of stately homes, including 16th century Haddon
Hall and Hardwick Hall; 17th century Bolsover Castle, Sudbury Hall
and Chatsworth House; and 18th century Kedleston Hall and Calke
Abbey.
So, where in Derbyshire will you find some ancient trees or
impressive treescapes?
The deer park at Chatsworth House (SK4280), the Duke of
Devonshire’s family seat, is definitely a good place to start. Known
as the Palace of the Peak, the house was built between 1686 and 1707
and extended in the 1820s. Whilst the house is best known for its
artworks, woodcarvings and rich furnishings, it’s worth a visit here
just to wander across the 1,100 acres of Capability Brown landscaped
parkland and gardens. Keep an eye open in Stand Wood for ancient
oaks and yews, some being over 500 years old. Rhododendrons,
introduced in the 19th century, dominate some areas, but parts of
the wood are being cleared and replanted with native species. There
are further fine examples of oak and yew in Old Park but this is not
open to the public.
The National Trust cares for more than 12% of the Peak District
National Park. Once again it preserves a number of gems, most
notably Calke Abbey (SK3622) near Ticknall. Known as The
House That Time Forgot, this baroque mansion has been left unchanged
since the death of its last baronet. The stunning landscape park
contains over 1,700 ancient trees, comprising more than 900 oak
trees as well as hawthorn, beech, small-leafed lime and ash. There
are two more splendid ancient ashes at Ilam Park (SK1350). A
number of long-standing hawthorns are also present in this beautiful
area of open parkland and woodland, running along both banks of the
River Manifold and providing spectacular views towards Dovedale. In
the upland valley of Alport Dale (SK1391/SK1489), there are
some fine examples of ancient alder, beech, rowan and ash trees in
the open wood pastureland, whilst more veteran oaks can be seen in
the lovely parkland at Sudbury Hall (SK1532). Setting for the
TV production of Pride and Prejudice, this is a richly decorated
house, with murals and ceilings by Laguerre and woodcarvings by
Gibbons, and incorporates a Museum of Childhood.
Two rowan trees survive, together with some crab apple trees and
ancient oaks, at the National Trust’s Longshaw Estate (SK2680).
This is a wide expanse of open moorland, woodland and farmland,
boasting some great views and some great walks. The classical
Palladian mansion of Kedleston Hall (SK3140) was home to Lord
Curzon and still houses the remarkable collection of objects that he
obtained whilst Viceroy of India at the turn of the 20th century.
Robert Adam designed not only the interior of the house but also the
surrounding parkland, which is home to a small number of ancient ash
trees, together with over 100 ancient oaks. You’re quite likely to
spot the massive, old yew at Shining Cliff Woods (SK3352) but
watch out too for some fine sweet chestnuts and ancient oaks.
Several dozen veteran oaks can be seen at Hardwick Hall (SK4663),
a quite splendid Elizabethan house designed by Bess of Hardwick. The
house contains armour and outstanding collections of 16th century
furniture, tapestries and needlework, whilst the surrounding country
park is home to several rare breeds of cattle and sheep.
The Derbyshire Wildlife Trust manages several interesting woodland
sites. Hillbridge/Park Wood (SK0178) near Whaley Bridge,
though relatively small, provides one of the largest upland areas of
oak woodland in the region. In spring, the woodland floor is
carpeted with bluebells, and if you’re lucky, you may catch sight of
a wood warbler or a pied flycatcher in the summer. Beside the River
Goyt, the oak trees give way to alders, and you may spot a
kingfisher or dipper here. The reserve is an important site for
lichens and mosses, with several rare species occurring on the older
trees. Brockholes Wood (SK0799) near Crowden is a Site of
Special Scientific Interest and provides one of the few remaining
examples of the sessile oak woodland which once covered the moorland
and gritstone edges to the far north of the county. With redstarts
and tree-pipits in evidence, Ladybower Wood (SK2086) provides
another such example, in an area known for its red grouse and
mountain hares. One of the largest blocks of deciduous woodland in
lowland Derbyshire is Ogston Woodlands (SK3659), to the
western side of Ogston Reservoir. In spring, bluebells, wood anemone
and wood sorrel carpet the ground. This group of woods includes
Ogston Carr Wood, Whitecarr Coppice, Coalpit Wood, Knowles Wood,
Clattercotes Wood and Carr Lane Wood. For a good illustration of
some of the county's most vulnerable habitats, including mature oak
woodland, wetland and acid grassland, a visit to Mapperley Wood
(SK4343) is also well worthwhile.
The Woodland Trust preserves some excellent woodland locations in
Derbyshire. Burrs Wood (SK3075) at Unthank is listed as being
ancient semi-natural woodland, with some oaks believed to be more
than 200 years old. Elm, ash and elder are also prominent, with rich
ground flora evident, especially in the damper areas near the
stream. Nor Wood, Cook Spring Wood and Owler Car Wood
(SK3780) near Coal Aston date back in parts to the Middle Ages.
This was the Trust’s 300th acquisition and is part designated as a
Site of Special Scientific Interest. Part of Nor Wood is designated
as semi-natural ancient woodland, whilst Cook Spring and Owler Car
Woods are listed by English Nature as being ancient replanted
woodland. Other examples of ancient semi-natural woodland include
Tom Wood (SJ9992) near Charlesworth, Halldale Wood (SK2864)
near Two Dales, Bow Wood (SK3156) near Lea Bridge and The
Birches (SK3451) near Ambergate.
Finally, there are a two other places worthy of mention. The setting
for John Manners’ and Dorothy Vernon’s dramatic elopement, Haddon
Hall, is a superbly preserved 16th century medieval manor house,
renowned for its impressive architecture, being “more glass than
wall”. It boasts a magnificent Great Chamber and a 500-acre park
with some fine treescapes. Radburne Hall (SK2835) is a
private residence in Radbourne, an unspoilt agricultural hamlet
(seemingly overrun with pheasants!), and is home to a number of
ancient hawthorns and oaks.
If you know of other ancient trees in Derbyshire or if you wish to
suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on
Nottinghamshire, we’d love to hear from you! Please email us, providing as
much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance
Survey map reference.
We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees
and ancient tree sites. Can you help? If you’re willing to share your
treescapes and tree portraits, please
email them
to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an
Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a
future article!
For information about ancient tree sites in other counties across
the United Kingdom, please
click here |
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