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Focus on Cumbria

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Diamond oak- Featherstone Castle Cumbria




View of massive alder pollard and Ullswater


 

 

Each month we turn our focus upon a different county, highlighting some key ancient tree sites and identifying some other places of general interest for tree-lovers.  Other than Woodland Trust properties, admission or parking charges apply for many sites, and as access may be prohibited or limited to certain dates or times, it’s always advisable to check with the site owner or with the local Tourist Information Office before making a visit.

 This month we head north-west to Cumbria, billed as “England’s most beautiful corner” and one of our few remaining havens for that most endearing rodent, the red squirrel. If Cumbria makes you instantly picture the Lake District National Park, however, then it’s time to take another look. This county boasts a breathtaking diversity of landscape, with coastline, farmland, woodland, mountains, fells, valleys and yes, the lakes as well!  

To the north, Carlisle provides interesting heritage, with its cathedral, castle, citadel and museums. It was originally sited on Hadrian’s Wall, built by Roman legionaries from AD122 to mark the northern frontier of their empire. Now a World Heritage Site, large sections of the wall remain, adding a marvellous historic feature to some truly spectacular scenery.

The Eden Valley to the eastern side of the county is perhaps least well known but is in fact quite delightful, combining the rugged North Pennines with lush green valley. Well worth a visit are the four historic towns of Alston, Penrith, Appleby and Kirkby Stephen, and Ullswater to the west, with its shoreline, meadows, sheer rocks and woodland is just enchanting.

To the far west are the red sandstone nesting cliffs at Little Bees, the Georgian port of Whitehaven and the Victorian town of Silloth. Here lies the heart of the Solway Firth, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, with rare wildlife and views to Scotland. Inland is Cockermouth, Wordsworth’s birthplace, whilst the Western Lake District boasts Hardknott Pass (Europe’s steepest), Wastwater (England’s deepest lake) and Scafell Pike (England’s highest mountain).

Towering above the tree-lined Thirlmere is the highest peak in the Northern Lakes, Helvellyn, providing a challenge for climbers and walkers alike. Skiddaw provides a similar setting for Bassenthwaite, home to England’s sole pair of breeding ospreys. The “Queen of the Lakes” is Derwent Water, with its wooded fells and tiny islands, whilst the spectacular Lodore Falls introduces the glacial valley of Borrowdale and the wildness of Honister Pass. Nearby Keswick, meanwhile, attracts both shoppers and culture-vultures, with its acclaimed Theatre by the Lake.   

Popular for boating and water-sports, Windermere - England’s longest lake - lies beneath some wonderful peaks and woodland. Another mountain, the Old Man of Coniston, overlooks the more peaceful Coniston Water. Other places of interest in Central and Southern Lakeland include Ambleside, Bowness and Hawkshead village, whilst fell walkers, following in the steps of Alfred Wainwright, might visit the historic riverside town of Kendal. There’s the picturesque Rydal Water and Grasmere too, whilst the Kent Estuary provides both sands and rivulets at Arnside.

So, where might you go in this ever-changing landscape to find some ancient trees or ancient woodland sites? Well, the National Trust invariably provides a good start. It’s responsible for conserving about 25% of the Lake District National Park, amounting to some 123,500 acres, which is about a quarter of the National Trust's entire holding.  It owns or leases almost all the central fells area and the major valley heads.

The National Trust’s first acquisition in the Lake District, Brandelhow Woods, is located on the shore of Derwentwater in Borrowdale (NY2417), which heads our list. This area, covering more than 29,000 acres, includes over 1,000 ancient specimens including pollards of ash, wych elm, small-leafed lime, oak, rowan, holly, birch, yew, hawthorn, hazel and crab. Fine examples can be found at Wood Bank (ash) and Low Bank (over 100 ash and wych elm) near Seathwaite. Similarly, around 100 ash pollards are to be found at Wood Bank near Watendlath, a lovely hamlet under the protection of the National Trust.

Ancient ash pollards are also located at Langdale (NY3006). The National Trust’s Coniston and Tarn Hows area comprises a mixture of fell and woodland, covering some 6,600 acres. It includes the well-known Tarn Hows beauty spot and Little Langdale, which provides several indicators of there being early settlements here.  Further examples of ancient trees can be spotted on National Trust land at Hartsop (NY4013) and at Gowbarrow Park (NY4120). Around 35 ash pollards are located at the first site and alder, wych elm, oak and ash trees are all to be found at the second. 

Another National Trust property, Windermere and Troutbeck, includes the beautiful and secluded head of the Troutbeck valley, as well as several sites next to Lake Windermere. One of these, Troutbeck Park (NY4207), offers another excellent opportunity to seek out a number of ancient ash pollards. This site was once farmed by Beatrix Potter and was her largest farm. Footpaths lead from Ambleside over Wansfell to the Troutbeck Valley and offer high-level views and contrasting valley landscapes.

The Cumbria Wildlife Trust is also responsible for preserving several ancient woodland sites in the county. To the south, Brown Robin (SD415790) near Grange over Sands provides a popular nature reserve of over 60 acres of woodlands and pasture. Parts of this woodland are ancient, and the yew and ash trees probably mark these areas. They naturally adopt limy soil, and the rock here is of limestone. Other ancient woodland indicators are present, including carpets of bluebells together with wood anemone, primrose and wild garlic. Another interesting and less common feature is Spindle, which also grows here, producing pink berries in the autumn.  Park Wood (SD565777), a National Nature Reserve near Burton in Kendal, offers ancient woodland on a series of limestone terraces, with small areas of grassland. Look out for field maples here. Ancient woodland and species-rich grassland are also to be found on the steep banks of Argill Beck. Argill Woods (NY844139) near Brough is accessible via public footpaths or by permit. The steep reserve of Ivy Crag Wood (NY244266) near Keswick is home to mature oak woodland, believed to have been planted in the 18th century, and fine examples of sweet chestnut, sycamore and beech are also present, together with wood sage, bluebells and wood anemone.

The Woodland Trust has a number of interesting properties too, including Dufton Ghyll Wood (NY685251) toward the western edge of the Northern Pennines at Dufton near Appleby, designated as both a Site of Special Scientific Interest and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty and listed as Ancient Semi-Natural Woodland by the Nature Conservancy Council. As well as some superb views and wonderful woodland, with mature beech, elm, oak, sweet chestnut and sycamore, the sharp-eyed visitor may well be lucky enough to spot a red squirrel.  Milton Rigg Wood (NY560615) near Brampton, a few miles south of Hadrian’s Wall, provides another outstanding landscape feature with some fine mature oak trees. This site, part semi-natural ancient woodland and part planted ancient woodland, is dominated by beech and oak, with pockets of birch, ash and sycamore. Ancient woodland indicators are present among the 200-plus species of flowering plants, which have been recorded at this location. Within the Lake District National Park stand Moss and Height Spring Woods (SD324863), near Bouth around 8 miles north-east of Ulverston. This attractive ancient woodland site is believed to be at least 350 years old. Along with the predominant mixed coppice including alder, birch and hazel, there are some fine specimens of oak and yew, and keep an eye open for the red squirrels which still reside here.

Finally, here are three other sites that  may be of interest. Geltsdale (NY5653) – a Site of Special Scientific Interest – is home to several hundred veteran trees including alders. Ancient ash pollards are in evidence around Ullswater (NY4420), which is the area’s second largest lake at more than seven miles long and on average around three-quarters of a mile wide. Its three distinct bends are often considered to give it the appearance of a dog's leg!  Owned by the Diocese of Carlisle, Rydale Park (NY3706) has fine examples of oak in the old park and alder and ash in the new park, and the public footpaths provide adequate viewing facilities.

If you know of other ancient trees in Cumbria or if you wish to suggest a site for inclusion in next month’s article, Focus on Wiltshire, we’d love to hear from you! Please e-mail us, providing as much information as possible and preferably including an Ordnance Survey map reference.

We’re also very keen to build up a library of photographs of ancient trees and ancient tree sites. Can you help?  If you’re willing to share your treescapes and tree portraits, please e-mail them to us, remembering to provide location details for each photo, with an Ordnance Survey map reference if possible. We’d love to include them in a future article!  

 
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Phil Marshall. Woodland Trust Volunteer of the Year 2004
Each month Phil Marshall (Woodland Trust, Volunteer of the Year 2004) writes entertainingly about sites to visit in a different county

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